Category: Home Painting

I Want Something to Waterproof and Paint an Outdoor Fountain With

Outdoor fountains are just one way to accent a landscape or garden. Use paint along with a waterproofing sealer developed for the substance your fountain is created from to find the best outcomes. With the paint, it is possible to make it blend in or stick out from its environment. With the waterproofing sealer, you are able to protect the fountain out of the weather and also help the fountain and the paint look good longer.

Ban Paint

While shopping for a paint for concrete fountains, look for paints designed for garage floors, driveways and other concrete surfaces. Masonry paint, otherwise called elastomeric paint, is designed for exterior concrete surfaces. It may offer some protection against climate changes and surface issues like cracks in the structure. Since elastomeric paint is thick, then be sure to use a wide-nozzle sprayer if you decide to spray on your fountain.

Metallic Paint

When choosing paint for a metallic fountain, look for 100 percent acrylic latex paint, which dries quickly and is very long lasting, or oil-based paint, that will adhere tightly to the surface of the fountain. Before you paint a metallic fountain, it has to be cleaned and wiped down with vinegar or turpentine. After it is clean and dry, you can put on two coats of a primer that is made to resist rust by spraying or painting it.

Vinyl Paint

While browsing for a paint for plastic fountains, look for plastic paint. There are particular varieties of paint made especially to bond with plastic, since other kinds of paint do not adhere well to plastic. For plastic comes in a can, paint created. To use it, then shake the tin, then spray from a distance of 12 to16 inches until the whole surface is coated. Wait until the first layer dries, then use another layer of plastic paint.


After you’ve painted the surface of the fountain, any apparent waterproof coating will operate to waterproof the fountain. If you’ve got a concrete fountain, look for a sealant like a masonry and concrete sealer that will provide protection against harsh weather. Many waterproof sealers protect against sunlight, water and other kinds of environmental damage, so have a look at a couple of brands before selecting which one you want.


Unless the paint you choose has a primer, look at using a primer onto the surface of the fountain before incorporating the paint. To use a primer, dip a brush into the mixture, run it on the rim of the can to remove extra primer, then run the brush on the fountain so smooth, long strokes. Wait for the primer before applying the paint to dry. Stir the paint before using it on the fountain. Dip the brush in the paint, then run it on the rim of the paint can to eliminate any surplus, then paint the fountain using the brush. Wait for the paint to dry before applying a sealant. Always paint on a dry, sunny day so that the fountain may sit out and dry completely before any poor weather.

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How Can I Save Seeds at a Vacuum Seal from the Freezer for Long-Term Storage?

The ancient custom of seed-saving is made simpler with modern appliances. While warmth, light, moisture and oxygen cause seeds to germinate, the opposite states preserve them for future plantings. Vacuum sealing the seeds in a plastic bag and keeping them in the freezer is the greatest process of seed preservation. With this technique, seeds which would only last a couple of years in the first package can stay fresh for up to 10 years or more.

Spread out the seeds on cookie tins with space between each seed, using a different cookie tin for each type of seed in order that they don’t get mixed together. Place the tin in the oven and then flip it on to the smallest possible setting to dry the seeds. Leave the oven door open throughout the drying procedure.

Stir the seeds each hour to encourage even drying. Monitor the oven temperature to make sure it doesn’t exceed 100 degrees and remove the seeds after 6 hours of drying.

Write the name of each seed variety on a self-adhesive label and stick each label onto a different vacuum seal bag.

Put each group of seeds into its individual bag. Insert the open end of their first bag into the vacuum seal apparatus, and press on the button to suck the air out and seal the bag. Repeat the procedure with another bags.

Place the labeled bags in a freezer or refrigerate below 40 degrees.

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How Soon After Pouring Concrete Sidewalks Should They Are Sealed?

Sealing a concrete sidewalk protects it against stains brought on by dirt, plants and organic debris, in addition to damage from chemicals and rust. Standard concrete is considered “fully cured” after about a month, however, it is important to follow your sealer manufacturer’s specified curing time.

Cured and Dry

Concrete continues to harden for many years after it is poured, but the standard period of initial curing is 28 days, or about one month. At this point, the concrete is very close to full strength and is prepared to accept most commercially accessible sealants. However, sealers typically must be implemented to dry concrete. It is possible to test the concrete for moisture content by securing a bit of aluminum foil on the sidewalk with duct tape and waiting 24 hours. If the foil is dry when you remove it, the sidewalk is prepared for sealing.

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How to Clean Gold Leaf Furniture

Gold leaf furniture, also known as gilded furniture, which has an extremely thin layer of gold applied above the surface, providing the piece golden accents. Gold leaf is so thin you may easily damage it, so take extreme caution when cleaning furniture decorated with the material. A light dusting with a soft-bristled brush is the safest way to clean gold leaf without causing damage.

A Gentle Touch

Do not clean accurate gold leaf furniture exactly the same manner as comparable furniture without a gold leaf therapy. Moisture, like from wiping it down with a damp cloth, can cause the gold leaf to release from the furniture and wind up on the cloth instead. A soft makeup brush or other brush using extremely soft bristles eliminates dust from grooves and details without removing the gold leaf. A gentle vacuuming also will help remove dust, holding the vacuum nozzle slightly away from the furniture bit to prevent scratching it.

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How to Remove Painted Tissue Paper In Your Walls

One of the best benefits of artificial painting is that inspiration can strike when you least expect it, causing you to change your original strategy. For example, you might have opened a frottage technique, where you stain a moist, glazed wall using tissue paper only to decide to use the paper directly to the wall to get dimension as well as color. Now, however, it can be time to get your painted tissue paper to come down. Although you might not have as much fun taking away the paper as you did applying it, then it can keep you focused on your next artistic creation and make sure that you begin it with a clean slate.

Affix painter’s tape to your baseboards to capture the water and paper fragments that drip from the wall as you eliminate the tissue paper. As an additional safeguard for your floor, spread a drop cloth, old blanket or plastic adhesive sheets close to the wall.

Cut small pieces of cardboard the size of any sockets on your wall. Cover the cardboard using masking tape to block water from seeping to the outlets.

Select the perfect tool — or even a combination of resources — to create holes in the tissue paper. Your goal here is to create holes in the paper so it’s possible to dissolve the adhesive underneath it. So if the tissue paper exhibits small cracks and bubbles, go over the wall using a straight pin, popping holes every few inches. If the tissue paper displays large bubbles and gaps, pop holes using a hair pick.

Fill a bucket with warm water and when it reaches a warm temperature that’s comfortable to the touch, wipe the wall with a large, soft sponge, similar to those utilized for washing automobiles. After the wall looks dry, repeat this step to loosen the glue under the paper.

Examine the grip of the glue by trying to remove the tissue paper using a putty knife. Based on the potency of the glue, it might come off easily at this point. If so, continue scraping away. Keep in mind it is the adhesive or glue that’s your authentic “nemesis” here since it is what is bonding the painted paper to the wall. Maintain a garbage bag nearby so you can toss glue and paper fragments promptly away.

Attack stubborn glue stains using a solution of 75 percent liquid fabric softener to 25 percent of warm water. Mix the solution in a bucket and pour it into a paint tray.

Cover the wall using the solution, employing a small or large paint roller. Use the solution just as though you were applying paint, going above the surface many times to ensure a consistent cover.

Permit the solution to sit down on the wall to get a minimum of 30 minutes. Lift the remaining paper or glue using a putty knife.

Finesse the wall, as it’s typical for little, gummy parts of glue to remain on the wall, also in this point. Remove any debris using a sponge or a putty knife.

Permit the wall to dry. Then rub together with the wall using a moist sponge and allow it to dry again. Clean it with a mild solution of sudsy water, then rub on it again while you envision plans for your next wall creation.

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How to Paint Tiles for a Stove Backsplash

Latex paint washes off tilebut bonds are painted by polyurethane using ceramic and porcelain. Tile supporting a stove awakens grease, so cleaning must be stood up to by a painted tile backsplash. Sanding and priming add strength. Remember that walls supporting stoves frequently are effectively painted, if you are worried about the heat from a stove damaging the paint. The enemy of painted vinyl is. You paint an existing backsplash or can paint tiles.

Clean all tiles using a non-residue cleaner and dry them thoroughly using a clean rag or paper towels.

Sand the tops of the tiles gently with fine-grit sandpaper to roughen the surface. Omit this step, When the tiles are unglazed.

Wipe off the tiles with paper towels or paper towels.

Spread newspaper over your work surface and arrange the tiles face-up on top of the paper.

Fill a little paint pan using oil-based paint primer.

Pass a little foam paint roller throughout the paint pan, saturating it with primer.

Roll an even coat of primer on each tile, working to avoid air bubbles. Allow the primer dry, then apply a second coat.

Allow the primer that is second dry immediately, then scuff the surface with sandpaper.

Fill another paint that is little pan using oil-based polyurethane paint.

By rolling it saturate a foam paint roller with paint.

Roll an even coat of paint over each tile using the paint roller. Allow the paint dry, and apply a second coat if needed.

Install the backsplash after the tiles are tacky. Wait at least 24 hoursand longer if possible.

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