Category: Tropical Style

The way to Propagate Bamboo from Cuttings

Bamboo plants are perennials which grow from rhizomes — underground growths that produce buds and culms. Propagating bamboo entails separating rhizomes from parent plants until they begin to sprout new growth in the spring. Two common types of bamboo may be propagated: running and clumping. Running and clumping bamboo have to get propagated differently because they grow differently. Rhizomes of running bamboo distribute, while sipping bamboo remains together in thick, tight clumps.

Working Passion

Propagate running bamboo in early spring to a cool, wind-free afternoon, before new culms sprout. Dig around the edge of the bamboo using a trowel to find out whether there are new buds and rhizomes.

Select parts of rhizomes that have at least 2 to four culms with 2 nodes. Cut the rhizomes from the parent plant using long-handed loppers or a saw.

Cover the base of the parent plant with dirt immediately. Cut back the culms to at least one-third of the stature. Plant the rhizome in precisely the same thickness as the parent plant at rich, organic soil in a container or in the ground.

Water that the parent plant and rhizome thoroughly. Mulch the plants with 2 inches of bark or organic material, then stake the culms.

Clumping Bamboo

Propagate clumping bamboo in spring to a cool, wind-free afternoon, before new culms sprout. Dig around the edge of the bamboo using a trowel to reveal the bottom of the clump.

Boost the smallest clumps out attentively, looking on the outside of the clumps for bulges of growths that have at least three or four culms and rhizomes using buds. Pick a piece of the clump that has powerful shoots, roots and buds.

Cut away the piece from the parent plant with a sharp spade or pruning saw. Pull up the whole culm using the rhizomes, then divide the slice, so that every piece have roots and about four buds.

Cover the base of the parent plant with dirt immediately. Prune culms to about one among the initial size. Plant the rhizomes in precisely the same thickness as the parent plants in a container or in rich, organic soil from the ground.

Water that the parent plant and rhizomes thoroughly. Mulch the plants with 2 inches of bark or organic substance, then stake the culms.

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The Disadvantages of Mulch in Vineyard Management

Mulch serves numerous purposes in a vineyard, including suppressing the growth of invasive weeds without the use of toxic substances. However, using mulch on your backyard grape job is not without its disadvantages. Knowing some of the drawbacks to spreading mulch one of your strawberries can help prepare you and also avoid any sudden surprises.

May Introduce Weeds

While mulch is generally utilized to keep weeds from growing, the true act of adding mulch into the ground can introduce weeds itself. Mulch that is notoriously higher risk in regards to adding new weeds into your vineyard include manure, hay and straw. Either choose mulch made from other thing, or buy mulch out of a nursery or garden store that has been certified to be free of weeds.

Increases Muddy Conditions

Mulch traps moisture from the ground surface, which helps decrease the demand for vineyard irrigation. However, this can create problems in soil conditions which are already very moist and, because of the continuous walking and use of equipment one of grapevines, can create problematic threatening circumstances.

May Create More Work

For adequate weed suppression, it can take a lot of loads of mulch per acre of vineyard. And, because mulch decomposes so fast — the typical thickness of mulch at a vineyard gets reduced by 60 percent in only 12 months — it still requires constant monitoring and replacing to keep its initial thickness. This greater level of labor intensity might not be reasonable for some gardeners.

Harbors Rodents

The layer of mulch one of a vineyard’s grapevines creates the perfect habitat for snakes, mice, gophers and other insects. While solving a weed problem, the mulch may in turn create a whole new host of issues for a gardener as the insects burrow among the grapevines’ origins.

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The Greatest Fertilizers for Apple and Pear Trees

Fruit trees cannot thrive without an adequate supply of major, minor and trace nutrients. Apple and pear trees are powerful feeders and will often make satisfactory growth with no fertilizer, particularly in naturally fertile ground. However, properly fertilized trees will repay your investment with increased vigor, higher yields and greater resistance to pests and diseases.

Nitrogen

Fruit trees need nitrogen for shoot growth and leaf production, which in turn affect the amount and quality of the fruit. For apples and pears, the recommended application rate is 0.1 lbs of nitrogen per inch of trunk diameter measured 1 foot above the floor and never over 0.7 lbs. You can provide 0.1 lbs of nitrogen together with approximately 0.5 lbs of ammonium sulfate, 0.3 lbs of ammonium nitrate, 0.8 lbs of blood meal or 1.5 pounds of cottonseed meal.

Potassium and Phosphorus

Apple and pear trees have extensive perennial root systems that are normally able to absorb enough potassium and phosphorus from the pure supply in the soil. If your land is deficient in potassium or phosphorus, applying approximately 0.4 lbs of phosphate or 0.2 lbs of potash per tree will help. You can offer the phosphate with 0.9 lbs of triple superphosphate or 3 pounds of bone meal, or the potash with 0.4 lbs of potassium sulfate or 4 lbs of wood ash. Surface applications of phosphorus are ineffective, so mix phosphorus fertilizer into the soil around the tree.

Minor Nutrients

Apple and pear trees need small quantities of many different nutrients, such as boron, iron, zinc and manganese. If your trees exhibit signs of a specific deficiency, you may look for a fertilizer product for this particular element. Generally, however, the simplest approach is to fertilize your trees with a broad-spectrum mineral amendment such as greensand or azomite. Mix these products into the ground at a rate of about 5 lbs per tree.

Soil pH Levels

The pH scale is used to quantify acid and alkaline levels in your land. Nutrients in the soil become more accessible to a plant when the soil pH is within the scope preferred by that specific plant. For apples and pears, the appropriate pH range is 6.0 to 6.5, or slightly acidic. The only reliable method to accurately adjust your pH is to get a soil test that reports pH and offers amendment recommendations that are suited to a soil and growing conditions.

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How to Change a Swampy Back Yard

Inadequate drainage on your back yard can result in swampy areas and muddy patches which kill grass or otherwise damage your lawn. Sometimes poor drainage is simply the result of oversaturation from heavy rains. If, nevertheless, you always have swampy areas in your back yard, then an underlying problem has to be fixed. Even though the reason for swampy areas depends upon the yard’s design and soil composition, you could have the ability to take care of the problem on your own.

Determine the reason for your swampy back yard if at all possible. Some causes of poor drainage are reduced spots in the lawn, packed soil, higher clay content in the soil and water runoff from gutters. Identifying the reason makes correcting the problem much easier.

Break up the dirt in the swampy area using a rototiller. Apply mulch, compost or other organic material to protect the dirt you broke, and utilize the rototiller on it again. This procedure allows air to the dirt, ensures it isn’t packed and adds water-absorbing natural material that will assist water drainage.

Cover the tilled area with topsoil, and then level the entire area with a lawn roller. Check the angle of the lawn. If a minimal place still exists, then add more topsoil, and level the region again.

Install or repair gutters on your house if necessary, and divert their water drainage from the swampy areas on your back yard. Attach drainage pipes to the downspouts if necessary to make sure the water gutters collect drains elsewhere, ideally onto a downhill slope from the house.

Dig out a part of your lawn that normally drains well and is close to your downspouts. Divert water from the downspouts to the small depression if your back yard continues to have drainage issues. Tilling the small depression’s dirt and adding sand or natural material could be necessary to encourage drainage.

Employ grass seed or put in sod in the areas you tilled and leveled. The grass will prevent erosion and dirt from packing while consuming water from the soil. Keep heavy foot traffic away from the seeded areas until grass begins to grow.

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How to Take Cuttings From a Dogwood to Start a Tree

Dogwood (Cornus spp.) — grown as an ornamental shrub or tree — is available in a number of cultivars at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 to 9, and can be readily propagated by cuttings. Softwood cuttings are obtained from summer and spring growth and hardwood cuttings are taken during the winter dormant season. Use whichever type is the most convenient for you because they are both excellent methods of propagating dogwood.

Softwood Cuttings

Use sharp, clean pruners to take softwood cuttings from dogwood in June or July. Choose pieces that are soft and flexible in the new spring growth. Eliminate 6- to 8-inch bits that don’t have some flowers growing on them. Remove the leaves in the lower half of this piece and trim 2 inches from the bottom by cutting in a 45-degree angle.

Utilize a 5-inch-deep grass that has drainage holes at the bottom. Fill it with a mixture of equal parts perlite and peat to about 1 inch from the top of the pot. Pour water above the potting mix until water flows from the bottom and to the tray. Use a pencil or stick to make a hole at the center of the grass.

Dip the cutting hormone rooting powder and insert it in the hole. Do not bury any of these leaves. Firm the potting medium around the stem until it’s set in place. Discard the additional water in the tray. Place the pot in a transparent plastic bag and set it at a bright place out of direct sunlight.

Check on the cutting frequently to make sure the soil is constantly moist but not waterlogged. The cutting will take a few weeks to take root and then it is possible to remove it in the plastic bag.

Hardwood Cuttings

Obtain hardwood floors throughout the dormant winter season. Choose branches from the latest summer growth. Use pruners and remove 6- to 12-inch-long bits that are 3/8 into 3/4 inch in diameter.

Prepare a 5- to 8-inch-deep pot by filling it with equal parts peat, perlite and sand. Water the soil and use a pencil or stick to make a hole at the center of the ground.

Trim 1 inch from the base of the cutting in a 45-degree angle and dip it into hormone rooting powder. Put it in the hole you created in the grass and press the soil around it. Put it in a transparent plastic bag and use a heat mat under set at 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep it at a bright location from direct sun.

Check on the cutting frequently to make sure the soil is constantly moist but not waterlogged. The cutting will take a few weeks to take root and then you can remove it in the plastic bag.

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Different types of Blue Spruce Shrubs

The most common blue evergreen tree or shrub in the landscape is the Colorado blue spruce (Picea pungens). The large native tree is found in the Western mountainous areas of the USA. The Colorado blue spruce thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 8. Many of these cultivated varieties, derived from the Colorado blue spruce, also develop well in these USDA zones.

Big Blue Spruce

The native Colorado blue spruce and its normal variation, Colorado blue spruce Glauca (P. pungens var. Glauca), can develop 50 to 80 feet in the landscape as well as taller in the wild. Most blue spruce varieties are smaller, even though the large ones. Moerheim (P. pungens “Moerheim”), Hoopsii (P. pungens “Hoopsii”) and also Iseli Fastigiata (P. pungens “Fastigiata”) are examples of large blue spruce varieties. Moerheim is a tree with dense foliage that reaches about 30 feet at maturity. It is a hardy, fast-growing tree with an irregular habit when young, becoming erect and pyramidal with age. Moerheim preserves its blue foliage throughout its growth phase. Possibly the strongest blue color is displayed by Hoopsii. It forms a neat upright tree of approximately 30 feet. Iseli Fastigiata also has great blue coloration and is very narrow with upward-pointing divisions, which makes a striking accent in the landscape.

Medium-Sized Blue Spruce

Medium-sized or semi-dwarf forms of Colorado blue spruce include Fat Albert (P. pungens “Fat Albert”) and Montgomery (P. pungens “Montgomery”). Fat Albert has glowing blue foliage and a squat, pyramidal shape. The tree is broad and rounded when young and will achieve 8 feet by 6 feet in 10 years following planting. Montgomery has a conical and globular shape with attractive silvery blue needles. It grows slowly, just 3 to 6 inches each year. After 10 years, Montgomery can reach 3 to 4 feet and a width of 3 feet.

Dwarf Blue Spruce

Dwarf Colorado blue spruce varieties have a tendency to get a globular form along with a slow growth habit. A good example of a dwarf variety is Glauca Globosa (P. pungens “Glauca Globosa”), which grows no more than 2 to 3 inches each year, eventually reaching a height of 2 or 3 feet. With time, it may become wider than tall and may develop one or more leaders, which should be pruned away to maintain its kind. Utilize neon blue spruces in rock gardens, mixed borders, as a low hedge or in containers. The shrubs are not fussy about the kind of soil, but prefer well-drained soil and a sunny or partially sunny location.

Prostrate Blue Spruce

The number Procumbens (P. pungens “Procumbens”), sometimes called “Prostrata,” is a low, spreading ground cover shrub. It grows 1 foot tall and also becomes 8 feet wide after 10 years. Procumbens is striking when used on slopes or when its silvery blue-green foliage spills over a rock wall.

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Honeysuckle Truth

Two of the most recognizable aspects of warmer months will be the brightly coloured blossoms and aromatic scent of honeysuckle in the atmosphere. Although invasive species can be thought of a garden nuisance, honeysuckle is often employed as an addition to a cover for fences and walls. As either a vine or a tree, honeysuckle is a robust, colorful addition to any yard or garden.

Description

Honeysuckle is the general, common name for about 200 species of deciduous, semi-evergreen flowering vines and shrubs. Even though honeysuckle often grows throughout Europe, Asia and various parts of the Americas, there are an estimated 100 species located in China alone. In addition to creating sweet-smelling, trumpet-shaped blossoms which range in color from white to yellow to bright orange, pink and red, honeysuckle plants also produce black, red or blue berries. Even though the nectar in the base of honeysuckle flowers can be absorbed, the berries are toxic and should not be eaten.

Forms

Sometimes referred to as woodbine and goat’s leaf, fragrant honeysuckle’s numerous species are proven to attract bees, birds and other wildlife. Two of the most widely recognized species of honeysuckle include Lonicera periclymenum, better called common honeysuckle, and Lonicera japonica, known as Japanese Honeysuckle. Common honeysuckle, typically found in Europe, can be known to climb up to 32 feet high, has white and yellow colored blooms and bananas red berries. Japanese Honeysuckle produces a vanilla scent and could possibly grow to over 80 feet. It also possesses double-tongued white flowers which turn yellow as they mature. Japanese Honeysuckle is also referred to as an invasive species and may be classified as a weed.

Maintenance & Care

Honeysuckle vines and shrubs often grow wild, but can be trained to develop a trellis or within a garden as groundcover. Even though honeysuckle is a hardy, low maintenance plant, it thrives in moist dirt. In summer months, watering and mulching is vital to preserving the roots and also discouraging aphids from attacking the plant. Many honeysuckle species grow well in full sunlight, but can also tolerate partial shade. While some varieties need some polishing during the winter season, most do not have to be pruned.

Fun Facts

In addition to being used as a cut flower in bouquets, baskets and potpourri, honeysuckle has long been related to superstition. Throughout the Victorian age in Great Britain, honeysuckle flowers were often grown in gardens and around the doorways of homes to ward off witches and evil spirits. It was also considered to cause fine dreams and enhance mood when put under a pillow. Now, honeysuckle is often utilised in herbal and aromatherapy pillows. Honeysuckle, sometimes referred to as woodbine, has also been often mentioned in classic British literature. The two William Shakespeare and Geoffrey Chaucer refer to this honeysuckle plant at “Twelfth Night,” “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” and “The Canterbury Tales.”

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Planting Sites for Apricot Trees

Apricot trees (Prunus armeniaca) create juicy sweet fruit using fuzzy skins at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Apricot trees are temperate fruit trees, which need chilling time to make fruit. In mild winter areas without long cold weather, look for apricot varieties with low chill requirements. The fruit ripens from late spring and early summer. The ideal time to plant apricot trees is while they’re inactive, either in the winter or early spring. Choosing the right place provides the fruit tree an increased likelihood of survival.

Space

Conventional apricot trees reach up to 30 feet tall, but they might be held at 15 feet tall with pruning. Dwarf-sized apricot trees reach 6 to 19 feet tall. The trees need space so they’re not overcrowded. This improves the sunlight the trees get and increases the air circulation, which dries the leaves fast. Conventional apricot trees need at least an area with a diameter of 25 square feet, and dwarf trees need half that.

Protection

Strong winds damage apricot tree leaves and branches. Winds can strip blossoms and fruit from the branches. Search for a site protected from harsh winds. In neighborhoods, check for buildings which may block the end. If the site is located in a windy place, plant dense shrubs and trees to act as a windbreak.

Soil

Apricot trees prefer slightly acidic fertile soil. Examine the dirt having a commercially available test kit before amending the soil using well-rotted manure and compost. The soil needs to keep moisture without being soggy because the trees aren’t drought-tolerant. Don’t plant in soil with high amounts of mud or clay. Appropriate sites for apricot trees include rich soil to the depth of 4 to 6 feet. Loosen up the dirt with a scoop in the region before planting. In case hardpan soil exists under the site, break up the dirt so that the roots have room to develop.

Elevation

Do not choose a low-lying place where frost settles in the spring. These areas also have a tendency to fill up with water during rainstorms and have drainage problems. Standing water above the root zone will cause root rot. Plant the apricot trees onto a mound or in a raised bed at least 1 foot high.

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The way to Prune a Red Sunset Tree

“Red Sunset” maple trees (Acer rubrum “Red Sunset”) and (Acer rubrum “Franksred”) appear perfect when pruned using a central leader, together with a single straight main division along with a balanced number of lateral branches on each side Grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, “Red Sunset” is named because of its dense canopy which includes bright red buds in spring along with also a splendid display of orange and red leaves in fall. “Red Sunset” trees grow 40 to 50 feet tall, which means you may have to prune the tree to maintain a smaller size if you have a limited growing space.

Prune “Red Sunset” maple trees in late winter before buds break or in early summer after the tree has flowered and is in full leaf exhibit.

Select one central leader and eliminate any other vertical main branches back to the point of origin on the trunk. Pick the straightest and most powerful division in the group of vertical branches.

Select strong branches for the scaffold branches, the main branches which stem from the central leader. Scaffold branches should have broad crotches, between 60- and also 90-degree angles together with the central leader, and be evenly positioned across the central leader. Make sure branches are available to sunlight, so that no upper branches shade from the lower branches.

Eliminate any scaffold branches you don’t wish to leave on the tree. Make a clean 45- to 60-degree angle cut at the point of origin on the trunk, cutting just beyond the branch collar, the ring of tissue where the branch meets the trunk, so the tree isn’t open to decay or disease.

Cut up to one-third of the entire branch length from each scaffold division, if desired. Make a downward-facing 45-degree angle cut just above a healthy bud to force branching just beneath the cut. This is known as a heading cut, and never needed, helps to encourage denser growth closer to the trunk. Also make this sort of cut to fill in any open spaces left as a consequence of removing injured branches. Don’t make these cuts on branches which are more than 1 year-old.

Stand back from the “Red Sunset” maple so that you can see the design of all branches; the tree canopy should be pyramidal to elliptical in shape, with the lower branches protruding further than the upper branches to permit for even sunlight supply to all branches. Look for regions of imbalance and branches which do not give rise to the powerful structure and tree form.

Cut dead, diseased or broken branches back to your nearest healthy bud or intersecting division. In addition to your yearly pruning instinct, eliminate these any time throughout the year as they occur.

Eliminate any lateral branches growing from the scaffold branches which have weak crotches with angles less than 45 levels, cutting them back to the point of origin with an intersecting division.

Cut out any rubbing branches, eliminating the division with a weaker crotch or that grows inward in favor of a division with a large crotch and outward growth direction.

Cut out any branches that grow inward toward the trunk in order to keep the canopy open to sunlight and air flow.

Eliminate any water suckers as they develop at the base of the tree or in branch crotches. These tiny branches tend to grow straight up and never become strong, therefore it is best to eliminate them so the tree doesn’t waste its energy growing them.

Thin out a few extra branches as needed if the canopy becomes too dense to start up all the branches to even sunlight supply and air flow. Choose the lowest branches or the ones that make the tree look unbalanced and cut those branches back to the point of origin on the scaffold branches.

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The way to look for Indian Hawthorn Seeds

Don’t confuse the Indian hawthorn (Raphiolepis indica) with the thorned and hardy native hawthorn tree. Indian hawthorns are low-growing, low-maintenance flowering shrubs indigenous to China, offering dense evergreen mounds of leaf around 6 feet high. The bush explodes with fragrant white or pink blossoms in springtime, from that develop the curved fruit or pomes, similar to rose hips. Generally tolerant of soil and shade, Indian hawthorns are somewhat drought resistant and largely maintenance free once launched. This tree thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11.

Explain Indian hawthorn plants when they begin to blossom in mid-April. Start looking for fragrant flower clusters resembling these crabapples, either white or pink. The plant’s leaves are rounded, leathery and dark green with serrated edges. Even though the Indian hawthorn is evergreen, some of the old leaves turn vibrant colours and drop in autumn.

Assess the Indian hawthorn bush above the summer. As the blooms fade, berries begin to grow. They are curved but slightly flattened, about 1/2-inch in diameter. They are ripe when they turn bluish-black in late summer or early fall and are soft to the touch.

Gather the berries in autumn before all are absorbed by hungry birds. Split open a berry. Inside are two little seeds that can be used to grow new Indian hawthorn bushes. Wash the seeds prior to planting.

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