The Greatest Fertilizers for Apple and Pear Trees

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Fruit trees cannot thrive without an adequate supply of major, minor and trace nutrients. Apple and pear trees are powerful feeders and will often make satisfactory growth with no fertilizer, particularly in naturally fertile ground. However, properly fertilized trees will repay your investment with increased vigor, higher yields and greater resistance to pests and diseases.

Nitrogen

Fruit trees need nitrogen for shoot growth and leaf production, which in turn affect the amount and quality of the fruit. For apples and pears, the recommended application rate is 0.1 lbs of nitrogen per inch of trunk diameter measured 1 foot above the floor and never over 0.7 lbs. You can provide 0.1 lbs of nitrogen together with approximately 0.5 lbs of ammonium sulfate, 0.3 lbs of ammonium nitrate, 0.8 lbs of blood meal or 1.5 pounds of cottonseed meal.

Potassium and Phosphorus

Apple and pear trees have extensive perennial root systems that are normally able to absorb enough potassium and phosphorus from the pure supply in the soil. If your land is deficient in potassium or phosphorus, applying approximately 0.4 lbs of phosphate or 0.2 lbs of potash per tree will help. You can offer the phosphate with 0.9 lbs of triple superphosphate or 3 pounds of bone meal, or the potash with 0.4 lbs of potassium sulfate or 4 lbs of wood ash. Surface applications of phosphorus are ineffective, so mix phosphorus fertilizer into the soil around the tree.

Minor Nutrients

Apple and pear trees need small quantities of many different nutrients, such as boron, iron, zinc and manganese. If your trees exhibit signs of a specific deficiency, you may look for a fertilizer product for this particular element. Generally, however, the simplest approach is to fertilize your trees with a broad-spectrum mineral amendment such as greensand or azomite. Mix these products into the ground at a rate of about 5 lbs per tree.

Soil pH Levels

The pH scale is used to quantify acid and alkaline levels in your land. Nutrients in the soil become more accessible to a plant when the soil pH is within the scope preferred by that specific plant. For apples and pears, the appropriate pH range is 6.0 to 6.5, or slightly acidic. The only reliable method to accurately adjust your pH is to get a soil test that reports pH and offers amendment recommendations that are suited to a soil and growing conditions.

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How to Change a Swampy Back Yard

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Inadequate drainage on your back yard can result in swampy areas and muddy patches which kill grass or otherwise damage your lawn. Sometimes poor drainage is simply the result of oversaturation from heavy rains. If, nevertheless, you always have swampy areas in your back yard, then an underlying problem has to be fixed. Even though the reason for swampy areas depends upon the yard’s design and soil composition, you could have the ability to take care of the problem on your own.

Determine the reason for your swampy back yard if at all possible. Some causes of poor drainage are reduced spots in the lawn, packed soil, higher clay content in the soil and water runoff from gutters. Identifying the reason makes correcting the problem much easier.

Break up the dirt in the swampy area using a rototiller. Apply mulch, compost or other organic material to protect the dirt you broke, and utilize the rototiller on it again. This procedure allows air to the dirt, ensures it isn’t packed and adds water-absorbing natural material that will assist water drainage.

Cover the tilled area with topsoil, and then level the entire area with a lawn roller. Check the angle of the lawn. If a minimal place still exists, then add more topsoil, and level the region again.

Install or repair gutters on your house if necessary, and divert their water drainage from the swampy areas on your back yard. Attach drainage pipes to the downspouts if necessary to make sure the water gutters collect drains elsewhere, ideally onto a downhill slope from the house.

Dig out a part of your lawn that normally drains well and is close to your downspouts. Divert water from the downspouts to the small depression if your back yard continues to have drainage issues. Tilling the small depression’s dirt and adding sand or natural material could be necessary to encourage drainage.

Employ grass seed or put in sod in the areas you tilled and leveled. The grass will prevent erosion and dirt from packing while consuming water from the soil. Keep heavy foot traffic away from the seeded areas until grass begins to grow.

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How to Connect a Downdraft Stove

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A downdraft stove looks and operates much like a typical selection, with the exception that a downdraft stove has a built-in ventilation system, which permits steam, gasses and grease in the cooking process to be captured and vented to the outside from beneath or behind the stove. This system eliminates the need for an overhead range hood, which enables the stove to be more easily set up in a kitchen in which an overhead-mounted range hood would be difficult to install.

Venting Through the Wall

Switch off the breaker into the outlet that forces the stove in the circuit breaker panel.

Measure the size and location of the port opening on the back of the stove, and using a pencil, mark the opening to the wall where the stove will be located. Locate the studs in this wall using a hammer, and mark the stud locations on the wall. If the vent opening does not reside cleanly in between the two nearest studs, check the installation guide to the range about ways to correct the position of the port so you do not have to cut any wall studs. Then reposition the port along with the marks on the wall accordingly.

Cut around the perimeter of the port markers using a utility knife, and remove the piece of drywall. Gently push back the insulation to attain the outside wall sheathing, checking for any electrical cables which might be in the way. If any wiring is impeding the port setup, stop and call an electrician for help in relocating the wiring.

Drill pilot holes at the exterior sheathing and siding corresponding to each corner of the port opening with a very long 1/2-inch drill bit and a power drill. Then, go out and cut the perimeter of the port opening between the four corner holes using a reciprocating saw.

Apply a bead of exterior caulk into the flange around the wall cap included using the stove, then slide the duct throughout the opening and attach the wall cap into the ground with the stainless steel mounting screws. Wipe away any caulking that seeps out of the flange around the ground.

Rank the downdraft stove in front of the opening. Combine the flexible vent link between the duct at the wall along with the port opening on the back stove, then thrust the stove into position. Connect the power cord into the wall outlet. Turn the breaker and test the performance of the stove.

Venting Between Floor Joists

Switch off the breaker into the outlet that forces the stove in the circuit breaker panel.

Tilt the stove back and measure the size and location of the port opening on the bottom of of the stove, and using a pencil, mark the opening onto the ground under the installation place. Locate the floor joists using a stud finder, and mark the joist locations around the ground. If the vent opening does not reside cleanly in between the two nearest joists, check the setup guide to your range about ways to correct the position of the port so you do not have to cut any joists. Then reposition the port along with the marks onto the ground accordingly.

Drill a 1/2-inch hole at each of the four corners of the cutout, taking care that you do not push the bit too deeply into the crawl space below. Then enter the crawl space and locate the four holes of the mounting place. Pull back the insulation, checking for any electrical cables which might be in the way. If any wiring is impeding the port setup, stop and call an electrician for help in transferring the wiring.

After checking for electrical wiring at the install location, go back to the kitchen and cut the perimeter of the port opening between the four corner holes using a reciprocating saw. Then position the stove into position over the hole.

Crawl underneath the kitchen and slip the rectangular duct to the cutout and to the foundation of the port casing beneath the stove. Attach a 6-inch metallic elbow into the duct, and attach the elbow using 6-inch metallic duct clamp.

Add a part of 6-inch duct into the end of the elbow, then connecting the two with a metallic duct clamp. Wrap a part of steel vent strap around the duct and attach it to the nearest joist using a 1 1/2-inch wood screw. Keep adding sections of hanging and duct straps until you arrive at the perimeter wall of the house in which you would like to mount the port.

Drill pilot holes at the exterior sheathing and siding corresponding to each corner of the port opening with a very long 1/2-inch drill bit and a power drill. Then, go out and cut the perimeter of the port opening between the four corner holes using a reciprocating saw.

Apply a bead of exterior caulk into the flange around the wall cap included using the stove, then slide the duct throughout the opening and connect the ducting under the house before attaching the wall cap into the ground with the stainless steel mounting screws. Wipe away any caulking that seeps from the flange around the siding.

Connect the power cord into the wall outlet. Turn the breaker and test the performance of the stove.

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How to Take Cuttings From a Dogwood to Start a Tree

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Dogwood (Cornus spp.) — grown as an ornamental shrub or tree — is available in a number of cultivars at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 to 9, and can be readily propagated by cuttings. Softwood cuttings are obtained from summer and spring growth and hardwood cuttings are taken during the winter dormant season. Use whichever type is the most convenient for you because they are both excellent methods of propagating dogwood.

Softwood Cuttings

Use sharp, clean pruners to take softwood cuttings from dogwood in June or July. Choose pieces that are soft and flexible in the new spring growth. Eliminate 6- to 8-inch bits that don’t have some flowers growing on them. Remove the leaves in the lower half of this piece and trim 2 inches from the bottom by cutting in a 45-degree angle.

Utilize a 5-inch-deep grass that has drainage holes at the bottom. Fill it with a mixture of equal parts perlite and peat to about 1 inch from the top of the pot. Pour water above the potting mix until water flows from the bottom and to the tray. Use a pencil or stick to make a hole at the center of the grass.

Dip the cutting hormone rooting powder and insert it in the hole. Do not bury any of these leaves. Firm the potting medium around the stem until it’s set in place. Discard the additional water in the tray. Place the pot in a transparent plastic bag and set it at a bright place out of direct sunlight.

Check on the cutting frequently to make sure the soil is constantly moist but not waterlogged. The cutting will take a few weeks to take root and then it is possible to remove it in the plastic bag.

Hardwood Cuttings

Obtain hardwood floors throughout the dormant winter season. Choose branches from the latest summer growth. Use pruners and remove 6- to 12-inch-long bits that are 3/8 into 3/4 inch in diameter.

Prepare a 5- to 8-inch-deep pot by filling it with equal parts peat, perlite and sand. Water the soil and use a pencil or stick to make a hole at the center of the ground.

Trim 1 inch from the base of the cutting in a 45-degree angle and dip it into hormone rooting powder. Put it in the hole you created in the grass and press the soil around it. Put it in a transparent plastic bag and use a heat mat under set at 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep it at a bright location from direct sun.

Check on the cutting frequently to make sure the soil is constantly moist but not waterlogged. The cutting will take a few weeks to take root and then you can remove it in the plastic bag.

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How to Extend an Outdoor Faucet

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Outside faucets, also referred to as spigots or hose bibs, are installed near an outside wall to prevent injuring people or damaging the faucet with lawn and gardening equipment. However, a homeowner may extend a faucet 16 to 18 inches from the mounting to hang a hose or to earn a faucet more accessible in areas with thick shrubs or plants. Extending an outside faucet provides a home-improvement enthusiast an opportunity to apply basic plumbing skills.

Switch off the water supply valve to your house. Open the faucet and allow the water at the line to escape.

Loosen and remove the faucet at the water pipe with a flexible wrench fitted just behind the bonnet and handle.

Wrap vinyl plumber’s tape clockwise on the threads at both ends of the galvanized pipe used to the extension. Thread 1 end of the pipe into the water pipe where the faucet was removed. Tighten the pipe clockwise with a pipe wrench.

Thread the galvanized coupler on the outer end of the extension and then tighten it with the pipe wrench.

Wrap plumber’s tape around the threads at the bottom of the faucet. Thread the faucet into the outer end of the coupler and tighten it with the adjustable wrench, stopping when the grip is facing upward.

Close off the grip on the faucet. Turn on the primary water supply to the house. Turn on the faucet for five seconds to clear the water. Turn off the faucet and check the new links for drips. Tighten any links, as essential.

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How to eliminate Bees in Bushes

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Although mammals serve important functions for plants, such as pollinating flowers and maintaining destructive pests at bay, they can also be a danger to children and pets which may soften them unknowingly. If you would like to eliminate bees in trees and shrubs, then wait until evening or early morning, once the bees have returned to their nest for the night, and wear protective clothing to avoid bee stings as you work.

Wear protective clothing, such as shorts, a long-sleeved shirt, gloves, closed-toe shoes and a bee veil on your face. Tuck pant legs into your socks, and tuck the top’s long sleeves into your gloves to close off openings. Don’t allow the bees access to your skin.

Find the origin of the bees. It may be a nest in bush divisions, but most likely the nest is underground. Keep an eye out for the opening from which the bees fly out.

Spray the nest and exposed areas near the nest using an aerosol spray containing pyrethrin and rotenone. Those chemicals sedate bees as toxins kill them. The spray is harmless to nearby plants and won’t contaminate the soil.

Watch the bushes periodically during the next couple of days. If you find any bee activity in them, reapply the aerosol spray.

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The way to Install a Timer Instead of a Switch

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If you are bored of having to remember to turn your lights on at dusk and then off again in the early hours, a timer could give an easy and inexpensive method to automate your home’s lighting needs. Because timers turn lights on and off automatically depending on your programmed schedule, they can also add a layer of security for your home while helping to keep your electricity costs in check. Best of all, installing a timer isn’t any more difficult than installing a regular single-pole switch.

Removing the Existing Switch

Switch off the circuit breaker that’s delivering power to the switch you’re planning on replacing with the timer. If you don’t have someone helping you with the task and your breakers are not labeled properly, you can turn the light switch on (make certain the light is functioning) then turn off person breakers one at a time till you become aware of the light turn away. As soon as you have the circuit breaker off, then remove the switch plate cover and test the switch with a noncontact voltage tester to confirm that the circuit is away.

Remove the top and bottom screws which secure the switch to the wall box.

Pull the switch from the box carefully by drawing on the top and bottom tabs of the switch toward you.

Loosen the two terminal screws on the switch and then disconnect the wires. Bend the cable that was attached to the upper side screw terminal toward the top of the box (the load cable) and the cable from the underside terminal toward the base of the box (the line cable). Loosen the green ground screw on the switch and then disconnect the ground cable from the switch.

Installing the Timer

Snip off the bent ends of the wires in the wall box with the cutting tool on the cable strippers. Locate the appropriate sized stripping channel on the cable strippers and strip off a 3/4-inch piece of insulation from the end of each cable so you’ve got a fresh lead to utilize.

Connect the ground cable on the timer to the ground cable coming from the wall box. If the timer does not possess a preinstalled ground cable, then connect the ground cable from the wall box to the ground screw to the timer.

Pull the neutral wires from the wall box and remove the cable connector that’s securing them together. Connect the white wire from the timer to the other white wires and then secure all of them together with the cable connector. Make sure the connector is on tight and that no copper is visible. Wrap electrical tape tightly around the port in which it matches the wires for added protection. Push the neutral wires back into the wall box.

Connect the black cable on the timer to the line side cable (the one bent toward the base of the box) and then secure them tightly together with a cable connector. Wrap the connector with a strip of electrical tape in which the wires leave the connector.

Connect the red cable on the timer to the load side cable (the one bent toward the surface of the box) and then secure them tightly together with a cable connector. Wrap the connector with a strip of electrical tape in which the wires leave the connector.

Push the wires into the box so that you may match the body of the timer comfortably within the wall box. Secure the timer to the wall box with the included screws.

Install the timer’s wall plate and then timer dial up (if it features one) as instructed. If the timer version includes a dial, you can schedule it prior to turning the electricity back on, but if it is a digital timer, then you will have to restore power to the circuit before you’re able to program it.

Restore power to the circuit by turning the circuit breaker back on, and test your timer installation to be certain everything works properly.

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The best way to Anchor Wrought Iron Fence Posts to Concrete

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Wrought iron fencing gives a sturdy, stylish addition to your lawn whilst at the same time offering some function, like containing a pet into a particular area. You can add it to the edge of your lawn or use it to dress up an otherwise dull area. Sometimes the fencing is installed around a concrete porch to create an enclosed space. If you’re setting up your iron fence on top of concrete, you’ll require a few particular hardware to anchor it to the surface.

Measure the edge of the concrete surface and mark the planned location of the posts.

Put a fence post in its location and mark the location of the holes at the welded plate that is on the bottom end of the article. Use a pencil to mark through the holes onto the concrete.

Remove the post and drill the hole locations using a power drill and a masonry bit. Drill down to a thickness that will accommodate your concrete anchors.

Place the article back in place and set the fastener part of the concrete anchor through the holes and to the concrete. After hammering in the fasteners to all holes of the post, place the bolt of the concrete anchor onto the fastener and tighten it down. Use a wrench to secure it completely.

Drill a hole into the concrete in which the gate posts must be located. Use a distinctive core drill that is able to drill into concrete without moving all the way through the bottom of the material.

Employ a concrete epoxy into the hole. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for mixing the epoxy. Fill out the hole, then put the article inside. Use a level to adjust the article and ensure that it’s vertical to your concrete.

Stabilize the article by bracing all four sides using some thing like wooden planks. Remove the braces when the directions say the epoxy should be dry.

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Safe Materials to Lamp Shades

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When making or remaking a lampshade, the material you choose for the job matters immensely. Some fabrics may burn, melt or discolor when hot, so it’s important to choose materials that can withstand a heat without damage. The internal liner material, such as a pressure-sensitive styrene, is actually the component which can help safeguard the outer material from heat. The bulb is every bit as important — when the wattage is too large and you are utilizing an old incandescent bulb, it could pose a fire hazard.

Inner Liner Material

Inspect different lampshades at your house or in a store, and you will discover that the inside looks different in the outer lampshade covering. This internal lining helps provide a strong yet flexible arrangement for the lampshade material while at the same time protecting it from heat emitted by the bulb. Pressure-sensitive styrene, also referred to as glue styrene, is that the substance used for the inside of several lampshades. This type of styrene is available at many craft stores or through lampshade provide shops.

The Outer Fabric

The very best fabrics for making your own lampshades are those made from natural fibers such as cotton or linen. Pick a fabric which can be ironed; otherwise, it wo not look smooth once you adhere it to the styrene. Don’t use synthetic fabrics or some types of thin silk which can discolor in the warmth of the iron or even the warmth of the bulb.

Non-Traditional Shades

Rather than the normal fabric shade on a wire frame, just about any substance which will not melt, burn or overheat may be used, such as a kitchen colander, cheese grater or even panes of stained glass. Make your own artificial capiz shell chandelier shade from discs of wax paper attached to strands of ribbon, secured to a wire lampshade ring or embroidery hoop. Massive cans such as olive oil or even imported pasta sauce cans may also be used after punching holes in order to allow light through.

Bulb and Socket Factors

Ultimately, your colour is only as secure as the bulb and socket assembly paired using it on the lamp. Check the light socket for a tag which specifies that the maximum bulb wattage considered secure for the socket; choose a bulb of the exact same or a lower wattage than recommended on the label. The lower the wattage, the heat emitted by the bulb. If building a lampshade from materials such as rice paper which may burn high heat or if near a flame, then pick only low-wattage bulbs that emit only a small amount of lighting. Select an LED bulb as a low-wattage option to a traditional incandescent bulb for yet another safe choice.

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What Height to Mount a Mantel?

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Mantel height isn’t a random decision; the [National Fire Protection Association](http://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards) — the NFPA — sets criteria regarding positioning of a mantel in relation to the fire box. Local building codes can also order considerations and criteria. In both scenarios, there are variations from fire kind — wood burning, gas insert, canister, electric — and also way of ventilation. **Before you set up** a fireplace, surround or mantel: * Check any local code or by-law restrictions. * Check the company’s manual, which should provide particulars regarding minimum clearance conditions.

Minimum Mantel Vertical Clearances

The NFPA says that mantel thickness is directly related to the required height clearance between the surface of the fire box and the base of the mantel. For combustibles, such as wood or particle board, encompassing a sloping fireplace: * A 2-inch thickness needs to have a minimum height clearance of 11 inches. * A 4-inch thickness needs to have a minimum height clearance of 13 inches. * A 6-inch thickness needs to have a minimum height clearance of 15 inches. * An 8-inch thickness needs to have a minimum height clearance of 17 inches. * A 10-inch thickness needs to have a minimum clearance of 19 inches. **Confirm manufacturer’s installation instructions** prior to finalizing a mantel style; some wood-burning fireplaces must have a minimum 12-inch clearance.

Minimum Mantel Horizontal Clearances

Mantel height is frequently the principal concern of homeowners, however, mantel width can also be important. In the case ofhorizontal clearances of woodwork or other combustible materials](http://www.fireplacesnow.com/mantel.asp), frequently as a trim thickness, the projection of the end material impacts the space required from the outside border of the fire box into the interior edge of this trim: * less than 1 1/2 inches thick requires a minimum 6-inch clearance. * Facing 1 1/2 inches or heavier requires a minimum 12-inch clearance.

Materials Matter

Mantel material selection is an important consideration, both with regard to what is seen and that which stays unseen, as non-combustibles like glass, concrete or natural stone might be installed at a lower height. The unseen elements are equally, if not more important, than the visible. Stone applied over wood studs and regular drywall is substandard. To match lower height criteria, start with metal studs covered with non-combustible board and also affirm clearances with the manufacturer. If painting or applying different finishes to wood trim, brick or even firescreens, first assess the suitability of this end for heat-resistance and flammability.

Scale and Proportion

In addition to the several regulations and recommended allowances, proportion and scale should affect your layout. Identical fireplaces in 2 separate homes, one having an 8-foot ceiling and the other using a 20-foot ceiling, demand distinct mantel treatments. At the taller space, the mantel would make a unified statement using a wider and possibly thicker mantel. The treatment should extend up the wall, not stop at the 8-foot mark to chop the space in half.

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