Author Archives: Selse1946

Patio Stain Removal

Whether your terrace is made up of brick, pavers or concrete, the appearance of a blot, from spills to mud and regardless of what the trigger, can permanently mar the appearance of the surface. There are a variety of methods to take when cleaning these stains from the walls, and different methods will work for different sorts of stains. If unsure, start with mildest strategy and work your way slowly into the harsher areas until the stain is still gone.


Eliminating residue from a spilled soda or a lost hot dog frequently requires little more than a good scrubbing with a gentle remedy like dish water and soap. For these stains, soak a tough-bristle scrub brush in the cleaning solution and scrub directly at the stain, working the suds and water deep to the surface of the terrace. As soon as you’ve scrubbed the entire area thoroughly, rinse it off with clean water from the hose to remove residual soap along with any remaining pieces of blot. If needed, wash again before the stain is completely eliminated.

Mold Stains

Because of constant exposure to the outdoors, patios frequently develop mold and mildew stains. Normally green or black, these substances won’t pose any serious dangers to your family, like mold inside can, but will continue to propagate across the moist surface of the terrace if not washed away. Mix a 10 percent solution of chlorine bleach to water to tackle these stubborn stains. Scrub directly onto the blot with a stiff-bristle scrub brush and rinse thoroughly when completed. When working with powerful chemicals like bleach, wear safety goggles and gloves to protect your skin from the potentially-harmful effects of the chemical.

Mineral Stains

In some terrace surfaces, especially those composed of unsealed bricks or stone, you might start to detect stains that look like rust. These are a result of the mineral deposits in the terrace surface leeching out thanks to water exposure. If those stains mar the surface of the terrace, mix up a solution of one part white vinegar to 3 parts water. This slightly acidic solution will dissolve most mineral residue, as before, scrub directly onto the stain and wash thoroughly when completed. Use a detail abrasive brush attachment on a rotary tool to lift rust from awkward areas where distance limits the capability to scrub.

Power Washing

Running a power washer against your terrace surface will remove nearly any blot thanks to the sheer force of those machines. Nonetheless, these tools can also result in serious damage if used incorrectly, and as a general rule just those with experience working with the tools should make an effort to clean a terrace with them. If you decide to use a pressure washer, then never turn the power up to 3,000 pounds per square inch or more, since this will certainly gouge the surface. Use a fan tip to make certain the spraying power is dispersed evenly across the surface, and maintain the wand at least 6 to 10 inches from the surface to avoid damage.

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Should I Sand or Pressure Wash a Front Porch to Remove a Stain?

A wooden front porch adds an old-world feel to any home, but maintaining it stain-free can call for a good deal of upkeep and time. If the porch is stained, you may not know the best method to remove the stains. Both pressure staining and washing can eliminate stains which are heavy into the wood, and which way you use depends on your experience level and preference.

Pressure Washing

Owning a pressure washer could be both a blessing and curse when it comes to caring for wood surfaces such as porches and decks. These machines are powerful cleaners, and you’re able to augment their cleaning power by adding wood cleaner into the water. But, they also have the capacity to do harm to your own porch. They could create upwards of 2,000 pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure, which may lead to gouges and cracks if not managed properly.

Pressure Washing Tips

Do not use a pressure washer if you don’t have any experience with the tool, or whether you’re not certain of your ability to manage it. If you choose to use it, hold the nozzle 10 to 12 inches away from the porch’s surface to avoid causing damage. Start at a low pressure setting and only work your way up the strain scale if required to get rid of a tough stain. You can add an expert wood cleaner into the water to get an extra cleaning increase; follow product directions when combining cleaner .


Sanding the wood surface eliminates the thin top layers, also for stains which have not sunk deep into the surface, sanding alone will often get rid of the blot. Sanding is also often done following pressure washing to remove splinters or rough spots resulting from the pressure. If you’re simply sanding the stained area, use medium-grit sandpaper or a rotary tool with a sanding attachment, then and follow up with fine-grit. If you have to sand the entire porch, then a handheld orbital or other type of power sander will make the job go quicker.

General Cleaning Tips

No matter which way you use to wash your porch, you can take some actions to make the job simpler. Remove all furniture from the porch until you start and pick up any large debris, like sticks or leaves. Sweep away dirt and dust from the surface. After the cleaning is finished, wash down the entire porch with warm water from a garden hose to eliminate residual cleanser or sanding dust. Do not let cleaner dry on the surface, since it can cause much worse stains if it sinks in.

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My Transplanted Holly Tree Has Brown Leaves

Holly (Ilex spp.) Thrives in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 11, depending on species, and is a favored hedge, accent or display plant for landscapes. That beautiful holly you selected from the nursery may quickly adhere to transplant shock or some other number of fungal diseases. Discolored, brownish leaves are a frequent symptom of both.

Water Problems

The root of transplant shock could be numerous factors, but finding out exactly what it is will allow you to bring your holly back from the edge of death. Too much water may lead to brownish leaves, along with your holly may have a moist, weeping look. Too little water, on the other hand, will turn your leaves dry and brown. In some instances, too much water is the result of an improper planting hole; the water escapes also stays around the holly, which may lead to over-watering symptoms. This will also lead to root rots and other problems.

Root Problems

Improper management of the root ball in planting time may also lead to transplant shock. Container-grown hollies need their origins, loosened and relieved of just as much soil as possible before planting. Failure to do any of them can bring about the roots not being able to move in the soil or develop. The roots are responsible for taking up water and nutrients to the rest of the plant; the leaves are frequently the very first part of the plant to show symptoms.

Fungal Diseases

Common fungal diseases of holly that lead to brownish leaves or brownish spots on leaves include different species of Phytophthora, Cylindrocladium, Anthracnose and Rhizoctonia. Even though the symptoms of the disorders, for instance, brownish or browning leaves, are unsightly, holly is rarely severely damaged from fungal diseases. Holly frequently experiences breakouts of the fungal diseases in the nursery during prolonged wet, humid or muddy weather.

Management and Treatment

Treating transplant shock depends upon knowing which variable of the planting process created the damage. Should you think improper watering is the issue, adjust the watering schedule as needed. Should you guess that the transplant shock is caused by root damage or the planting hole, then replanting the holly in a proper place and hole may reverse the symptoms. For fungal diseases, choose a ready-to-spray fungicide and implement every 10 to 14 days as needed, or according to the product’s label as some fungicides may call for different program programs.

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Shrubs With Purple Berries

Berry-producing shrubs offer colour and texture to a home landscape. Purple-berried shrubs are not as common as the favorite red berry, however there are a number of choices that work well either as a border or solitude shrub. Determine your wants, sunlight amount and dirt conditions before choosing the best purple berries for the planned planting area.


Purple Beautyberry (Callicarpa dichotoma) is a deciduous shrub growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8. The shrub produces light pink flowers in the summer that flip to lilac-colored rows of berries that standout against the light green foliage in early autumn. Purple beautyberry grows to a height up to 6 feet tall with a branch spread of 6 feet. The branches have an arching or drooping appearance which makes the shrub an elegant addition to the landscape. Beautyberry prefers full sunlight and is attractive to birds.

David Viburnum

David viburnum (V. davidii) is a kind of viburnum that produces a berry with a tinge of purple. The ornamental shrub grows best in USDA zones 7 through 9, maintaining a little dome shape with a mature height up to five feet. Metallic blue-purple berries appear on the tree following the tiny white flowers fade. David viburnum prefers a partially shaded growing location with moist, well-draining dirt.

Leatherlead Viburnum

Leatherleaf viburnum (V. rhytidophyllum) rises in USDA zones 6 through 9 and has slightly different attributes than David viburnum. The clusters of crimson fruit turn to a black-purple shade as the strawberries era through the growing season. Leatherleaf viburnum includes a mature height up to 15 feet and then spread up to 12 feet. The distinctive foliage is dark green with a soft fuzz on the undersides. Leatherleaf viburnum tolerates moderately shaded growing areas and prefers a rich soil that is moist and acidic.

Western Serviceberry

Western serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) is a deciduous shrub from the rose family which reaches a height up to 12 feet and takes on a tree shape when left to develop naturally. The shrub produces 1-inch-long clusters of creamy purple-blue berries which may be used for jams and jellies. The vegetables and flowers are attractive to birds and mammals. Western serviceberry also goes by the title Saskatoon and can be found growing in USDA zones 3 through 8. The shrub prefers full sunlight, but is tolerant of light shade. Pick a moist, rich soil for best growth and berry production.

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Weeping Cherry Tree Burned by Summer Heat

Weeping cherries (Prunus subhirtella “Pendula”), together with their lovely drooping boughs and oodles of springtime blossoms are a precious, shade-giving addition to any lawn. While they grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5a through 8b, like many trees, the weeping cherry is susceptible to burning in the heat of the summer. If you would like to shield your tree, it’s important to comprehend the causes and symptoms of burn and treatments and prevention.


Summer heat can burn a weeping cheery tree for many reasons. Too little water can weaken the tree’s normal vitality and make it susceptible to trunk, limb and leaf glowsoff. Heat canker — that will be extensive tissue damage, not a disorder — is another reason of burn, that happens when late-planted trees produce insufficient ability to protect themselves from sunlight near the base of their sensitive trunks. Infrequently, unseasonably hot weather will tax a tree past the way it can protect itself.


Weeping cherry burn symptoms also vary. With heat canker, the tree will develop a brown, dead-looking area near the delicate soil line of the back. Scorching from bleeding or dehydration may create discolored patches on the bark, or can lead to leaves that turn yellow-brown or appear withered on the exterior. In rare cases, the tree’s leaves can drop off entirely, leaving it bare at the height of summer, though not dead.


Unfortunately, super-hot weather is past your ability to repair. If you can, safeguard young weeping cherry trees with shade cloth. You can treat heat canker comparatively by simply ringing the tree with sod a foot or so up the back to cool and shield it from sunlight. Dehydration issues are also solved by simply making sure a tree contains an adequate source of water, and gets extra until its burn symptoms disappear.


Preventing burn in the first place may be your very best bet. Plant new weeping cherry trees once the days are still cool to allow roots to acclimatize and cause it to be more prepared to take care of moisture loss. You should also be careful to maintain pesticides and treatments from the tree when warm weather threatens, since the combination of chemicals and sunlight can be dangerous.

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How to Wrap Black Plastic About Fruit Trees in the Winter

On warmer winter days, fluids began to move inside your trees; when the sun sets and colder temperatures return, trees are often damaged. Known as “sunscald,” the abrupt drop can cause holes and cracks in the bark. However, a little plastic and planning can protect your trees from harm.

Ample and unroll the plastic wrapping. One side should be light or white colored, and another black.

Begin at the bottom of the tree. Hold one end of the wrap from your back. The light side should be facing, the dark side facing in. Begin wrapping the plastic around the tree back in a circular motion.

Overlap the plastic, winding it around the back while moving upward. Multiple layers aren’t needed, but you don’t wish to leave any gaps between the plastic in which the bark is exposed.

Take the wrap all the way to the very first key limb to make sure the whole trunk is shielded. It can be extended further on younger trees using slimmer trunks.

Pull the wrap cozy. Use the scissors to cut off any excess plastic which isn’t needed.

Staple the cut end to the wrap itself, taking care not to push some staples to the tree. You might want to loosen the wrap marginally at the top to create a small bulge of vinyl wrap which can be stapled to the finish.

Remove the tree wrap after one year. If the wrapping is left on longer, especially during the warmer summer months, then it may encourage disease and insects to take up home from the exceedingly protected bark. It may also constrict the tree healthy growth.

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The way to put in a Plumbing Stub-Out

The plumbing stub-outs would be the end result of this rough-in stage of pipes a residential or commercial construction. They are normally installed while the walls are still uncovered; and after the drywall painting and work is complete, a contractor comes hooks and back them up to the plumbing fixtures. There are two sorts of pipes pipes in a building: the water supply pipes as well as also the waste pipes. Consequently, there are two sorts of stub-outs.

Provide Stub-Outs

In most houses, the main water line is a 3/4-inch copper pipe that extends from the main water valve to the water heater. There it branches into two lines — hot and cold — which stretch throughout the house, buried inside the walls. At every stage where a fixture thrives, a branch line of 1/2-inch pipe tees from each principal pipe and extends to the point of use. The branch line typically terminates a inch or two past the wall or floor below the fixture that it’s services. The contractor solders on a cap that gets cut off prior to connecting the fixture. The capped pipe is a supply stub-out.

Drain Stub-Outs

The principal element of a drain-waste-vent system is that the soil stack. One end of the 3- or 4-inch pipe connects to the sewer along with the other end rises through the roof after being diminished to a 2-inch diameter. Toilet waste lines, typically 3 inches in diameter, connect directly to the soil stack, and fixture drains typically connect to the bathroom waste lines. Plumbers make fixture drains with 2-inch plastic pipes — either PVC or ABS. They stub one of these drain lines from the floor or the wall below a sink and usually, but not always, cap it until it is time to connect the sink.

Installing a Provide Stub-Out

The installation of a water source stub-out begins with installing a cutting edge at a stage in the main supply pipe close to the fixture to be supplied. In an existing water line, you need to turn off the water and then drain the pipe before you cut into it. The usual procedure would be to first construct the branch line all the way to the point at which it stubs out, return and solder all the connections, then solder on a cap. Plumbers typically clamp the pipe to a fireplace straight behind the point at which it emerges from the wall.

Installing a Waste Stub-Out

A significant difference between supply pipes and waste pipes is that waste pipes should slope down from the drain that they service — at least 1/4 inch per foot. Furthermore, elbows and tees have to have sweeps to promote water circulation. Another difference is that fixture waste pipes require heat, so you may need to tie in a pipe that rises to satisfy the main vent if the soil pile is too far away. The magnitude of the pipe and its distance in the opening of this stub-out are dictated by the plumbing code. Consult with a contractor if you are not certain how to proceed.

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Tomato Plant Growing Guide

Tomatoes grow well in most gardens as long as they get at least three months of warm weather and sunshine. Planting the tomatoes in the ideal place in good soil and providing suitable care through summer increases your yield of fruits that are ripe. Although tomatoes come in many varieties, all of them require similar care to grow nicely.

Site Planning

Tomatoes require at least six hours of direct sunlight every day and temperatures above 65 degrees Fahrenheit to grow and fruit nicely. Amending the planting site with a 2-inch layer of compost, dug into the top 6 inches of soil, improves soil quality and supplies some nutrients. Apply a balanced fertilizer, such as 1 pound of a 10-10-10 mixture per 25 square feet, before planting, and work it into the dirt with the compost.


Started seedlings, whether you purchase them or begin them yourself, give a head start for strawberries because they demand a long season to produce. Start seeds indoors approximately eight weeks before the last frost date in your region. Transplant seedlings 1 to 2 inches deep in the backyard than they have been growing in their seedling pots. Space the plants with 30 inches of distance in all directions.


Install stakes or tomato cages at planting time to give support since the strawberries grow. Caged plants require minimum care for support, while staked plants need the principal stem tied to the stake at 8-inch periods as the plants grow. Pinch off the suckers, or small sprouts, that grow at the junction between lateral stems and also the main stem therefore staked plants do not develop multiple principal stems. Normally, determinate tomato varieties grow well with cages, while taller, indeterminate types require staking.

Water Needs

A thick 2- to 3-inch layer of straw mulch keeps down weeds and also conserves soil moisture to minimize watering. Water mulched plants one or two times a week to ensure the top 6 inches of soil remains moist. Rumors need about 1 inch of water at each watering, even though they may require less during rainy periods. Avoid wetting the foliage when watering the plants.


The first fertilizer provides for the tomato plant’s needs until it starts to flower and set fruit. Apply a side of a nitrogen-rich fluid as fruit begins to form, like 1 pound of a 10-5-5 mixture per 25 square feet. Work the fertilizer into the soil about 8 inches away from the base of the plants then water thoroughly so the nutrients soak into the soil around the roots.


Tomatoes are prone to a variety of pests and diseases. Proper spacing and avoiding getting the leaves wet when mowing reduces the chances of the majority of fungal leaf issues. Planting disease-resistant varieties, which can be labeled on the plant tag or seed package, prevents most lethal viral and bacterial diseases. Inspect crops weekly for pest issues, like aphids, mites and tomato hornworms. Treat pests promptly with an insecticidal soap, or by removing the pests by hand.

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What's going to do away with Hedge Bushes in Yards?

Hedges can add privacy and attractiveness to the lawn, but eventually these bushes may need to be removed. The species may clash with the rest of the garden, or the hedge may have acute disease or insect infestations. The plants may be nearing the end of the lifespan, or are only taking up too much space. Whatever the reason, eliminating unwelcome hedge bushes is frequently a multistep procedure.

Foliar Herbicide Sprays

If the hedge bushes remain alive and you don’t want to transplant them or give them away, killing the bushes makes dispose of them easier. Bushes around 15 feet tall may be treated with a foliar herbicide spray which contains glyphosate, glyphosate together with imazapyr or triclopyr, triclopyr or 2,4-D. Leaves absorb the herbicides and spread it to the roots. The procedure can take a couple of weeks. Foliar sprays shouldn’t be used on windy days, to avoid injuring desirable vegetation nearby. Herbicides have various times of year and temperature conditions for optimum results. That information and special spraying directions are on the product tag.

Other Herbicides

Large shrubs may require a direct application of systemic herbicide like dirt application so that the roots will circulate the toxin. If the bush has thick stems, you can cut notches in the stems to enhance the absorption of herbicide. The cut component should be left attached, a procedure called frilling, as well as the herbicide should be applied immediately. A machete or ax could possibly be used to hack arbitrary notches in the stems and herbicide sprayed to the notches. Herbicides containing 2,4-D, triclopyr or picloram are effective.

Reducing and Digging

Once dead, the bush can be cut down to about 1 foot above ground level. Watering the soil around the root system makes digging the bush up easier. A trench dug around the outer region of the plant’s origins and angled toward the middle is the first measure. A sharp scoop, ax or saw may be used to lower the roots in the trench. Next, the main root ball should be freed by cutting toward and below it, severing the major roots.


Once the root ball is freed, smaller shrubs may be pulled from the ground by hand. For larger shrubs, you may think attaching a chain to the stump and pulling it with a car or using a cable and hand-operated cable puller, sometimes known as a come-along. Forcing the stump from the ground should be done gradually and carefully for safety reasons.


If you don’t need to go to the trouble of digging and pulling the stumps of this hedge bushes from the ground, then you can use a stump grinder to whittle the stump down. Stump grinders are usually available at equipment rental shops if you do not own one. Follow directions carefully and wear safety goggles and heavy gloves to avoid injury. The chips and splinters produced by grinding can be used as mulch in the garden if the hedge bush was healthful. A layer of dirt can be shoveled over the earth stump to level the region.

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How to Root an Ananas (Pineapple) Plant

And you believed the pina colada has been the most fun you could have with a pineapple. It is even more rewarding to grow your ananas shrub (Ananas comosus), more commonly referred to as a pineapple plant, by rooting the crown of this fruit. The new plant can finally produce pineapples in the backyard at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Do not anticipate pineapples until at least two or three years following the plants roots, but lush foliage will grow rapidly to about 4 feet high and 6 ft wide.

Grasp the pineapple firmly with one hand. Twist the pineapple crown using the other. Keep twisting until the crown comes from the fruit. Use scissors to clip off the lower level leaves.

Dry the crown for two full days in a trendy site. Plant the cut end in a sunny, wind-protected flower bed if it’s summer, in a container at different seasons. Fill the container or bed using sandy, well-draining soil. Plant the bottom 2 inches of the pineapple crown at the soil. If you’ve got more than one plant, space them at least a foot apart. Mulch outdoor plants with 2 to 3 inches of redwood compost or using a layer of black plastic sheeting.

Water that the pineapple plant adequately to keep the soil moist. Pineapples tolerate drought but prefer routine irrigation. Pour the water to the vase-like very top of this crown. You may understand when the plant roots by the new growth that appears from the overhead.

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