Monthly Archives: April 2022

How to Take Cuttings From a Dogwood to Start a Tree

Dogwood (Cornus spp.) — grown as an ornamental shrub or tree — is available in a number of cultivars at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 to 9, and can be readily propagated by cuttings. Softwood cuttings are obtained from summer and spring growth and hardwood cuttings are taken during the winter dormant season. Use whichever type is the most convenient for you because they are both excellent methods of propagating dogwood.

Softwood Cuttings

Use sharp, clean pruners to take softwood cuttings from dogwood in June or July. Choose pieces that are soft and flexible in the new spring growth. Eliminate 6- to 8-inch bits that don’t have some flowers growing on them. Remove the leaves in the lower half of this piece and trim 2 inches from the bottom by cutting in a 45-degree angle.

Utilize a 5-inch-deep grass that has drainage holes at the bottom. Fill it with a mixture of equal parts perlite and peat to about 1 inch from the top of the pot. Pour water above the potting mix until water flows from the bottom and to the tray. Use a pencil or stick to make a hole at the center of the grass.

Dip the cutting hormone rooting powder and insert it in the hole. Do not bury any of these leaves. Firm the potting medium around the stem until it’s set in place. Discard the additional water in the tray. Place the pot in a transparent plastic bag and set it at a bright place out of direct sunlight.

Check on the cutting frequently to make sure the soil is constantly moist but not waterlogged. The cutting will take a few weeks to take root and then it is possible to remove it in the plastic bag.

Hardwood Cuttings

Obtain hardwood floors throughout the dormant winter season. Choose branches from the latest summer growth. Use pruners and remove 6- to 12-inch-long bits that are 3/8 into 3/4 inch in diameter.

Prepare a 5- to 8-inch-deep pot by filling it with equal parts peat, perlite and sand. Water the soil and use a pencil or stick to make a hole at the center of the ground.

Trim 1 inch from the base of the cutting in a 45-degree angle and dip it into hormone rooting powder. Put it in the hole you created in the grass and press the soil around it. Put it in a transparent plastic bag and use a heat mat under set at 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep it at a bright location from direct sun.

Check on the cutting frequently to make sure the soil is constantly moist but not waterlogged. The cutting will take a few weeks to take root and then you can remove it in the plastic bag.

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How to Extend an Outdoor Faucet

Outside faucets, also referred to as spigots or hose bibs, are installed near an outside wall to prevent injuring people or damaging the faucet with lawn and gardening equipment. However, a homeowner may extend a faucet 16 to 18 inches from the mounting to hang a hose or to earn a faucet more accessible in areas with thick shrubs or plants. Extending an outside faucet provides a home-improvement enthusiast an opportunity to apply basic plumbing skills.

Switch off the water supply valve to your house. Open the faucet and allow the water at the line to escape.

Loosen and remove the faucet at the water pipe with a flexible wrench fitted just behind the bonnet and handle.

Wrap vinyl plumber’s tape clockwise on the threads at both ends of the galvanized pipe used to the extension. Thread 1 end of the pipe into the water pipe where the faucet was removed. Tighten the pipe clockwise with a pipe wrench.

Thread the galvanized coupler on the outer end of the extension and then tighten it with the pipe wrench.

Wrap plumber’s tape around the threads at the bottom of the faucet. Thread the faucet into the outer end of the coupler and tighten it with the adjustable wrench, stopping when the grip is facing upward.

Close off the grip on the faucet. Turn on the primary water supply to the house. Turn on the faucet for five seconds to clear the water. Turn off the faucet and check the new links for drips. Tighten any links, as essential.

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How to eliminate Bees in Bushes

Although mammals serve important functions for plants, such as pollinating flowers and maintaining destructive pests at bay, they can also be a danger to children and pets which may soften them unknowingly. If you would like to eliminate bees in trees and shrubs, then wait until evening or early morning, once the bees have returned to their nest for the night, and wear protective clothing to avoid bee stings as you work.

Wear protective clothing, such as shorts, a long-sleeved shirt, gloves, closed-toe shoes and a bee veil on your face. Tuck pant legs into your socks, and tuck the top’s long sleeves into your gloves to close off openings. Don’t allow the bees access to your skin.

Find the origin of the bees. It may be a nest in bush divisions, but most likely the nest is underground. Keep an eye out for the opening from which the bees fly out.

Spray the nest and exposed areas near the nest using an aerosol spray containing pyrethrin and rotenone. Those chemicals sedate bees as toxins kill them. The spray is harmless to nearby plants and won’t contaminate the soil.

Watch the bushes periodically during the next couple of days. If you find any bee activity in them, reapply the aerosol spray.

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The way to Install a Timer Instead of a Switch

If you are bored of having to remember to turn your lights on at dusk and then off again in the early hours, a timer could give an easy and inexpensive method to automate your home’s lighting needs. Because timers turn lights on and off automatically depending on your programmed schedule, they can also add a layer of security for your home while helping to keep your electricity costs in check. Best of all, installing a timer isn’t any more difficult than installing a regular single-pole switch.

Removing the Existing Switch

Switch off the circuit breaker that’s delivering power to the switch you’re planning on replacing with the timer. If you don’t have someone helping you with the task and your breakers are not labeled properly, you can turn the light switch on (make certain the light is functioning) then turn off person breakers one at a time till you become aware of the light turn away. As soon as you have the circuit breaker off, then remove the switch plate cover and test the switch with a noncontact voltage tester to confirm that the circuit is away.

Remove the top and bottom screws which secure the switch to the wall box.

Pull the switch from the box carefully by drawing on the top and bottom tabs of the switch toward you.

Loosen the two terminal screws on the switch and then disconnect the wires. Bend the cable that was attached to the upper side screw terminal toward the top of the box (the load cable) and the cable from the underside terminal toward the base of the box (the line cable). Loosen the green ground screw on the switch and then disconnect the ground cable from the switch.

Installing the Timer

Snip off the bent ends of the wires in the wall box with the cutting tool on the cable strippers. Locate the appropriate sized stripping channel on the cable strippers and strip off a 3/4-inch piece of insulation from the end of each cable so you’ve got a fresh lead to utilize.

Connect the ground cable on the timer to the ground cable coming from the wall box. If the timer does not possess a preinstalled ground cable, then connect the ground cable from the wall box to the ground screw to the timer.

Pull the neutral wires from the wall box and remove the cable connector that’s securing them together. Connect the white wire from the timer to the other white wires and then secure all of them together with the cable connector. Make sure the connector is on tight and that no copper is visible. Wrap electrical tape tightly around the port in which it matches the wires for added protection. Push the neutral wires back into the wall box.

Connect the black cable on the timer to the line side cable (the one bent toward the base of the box) and then secure them tightly together with a cable connector. Wrap the connector with a strip of electrical tape in which the wires leave the connector.

Connect the red cable on the timer to the load side cable (the one bent toward the surface of the box) and then secure them tightly together with a cable connector. Wrap the connector with a strip of electrical tape in which the wires leave the connector.

Push the wires into the box so that you may match the body of the timer comfortably within the wall box. Secure the timer to the wall box with the included screws.

Install the timer’s wall plate and then timer dial up (if it features one) as instructed. If the timer version includes a dial, you can schedule it prior to turning the electricity back on, but if it is a digital timer, then you will have to restore power to the circuit before you’re able to program it.

Restore power to the circuit by turning the circuit breaker back on, and test your timer installation to be certain everything works properly.

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The best way to Anchor Wrought Iron Fence Posts to Concrete

Wrought iron fencing gives a sturdy, stylish addition to your lawn whilst at the same time offering some function, like containing a pet into a particular area. You can add it to the edge of your lawn or use it to dress up an otherwise dull area. Sometimes the fencing is installed around a concrete porch to create an enclosed space. If you’re setting up your iron fence on top of concrete, you’ll require a few particular hardware to anchor it to the surface.

Measure the edge of the concrete surface and mark the planned location of the posts.

Put a fence post in its location and mark the location of the holes at the welded plate that is on the bottom end of the article. Use a pencil to mark through the holes onto the concrete.

Remove the post and drill the hole locations using a power drill and a masonry bit. Drill down to a thickness that will accommodate your concrete anchors.

Place the article back in place and set the fastener part of the concrete anchor through the holes and to the concrete. After hammering in the fasteners to all holes of the post, place the bolt of the concrete anchor onto the fastener and tighten it down. Use a wrench to secure it completely.

Drill a hole into the concrete in which the gate posts must be located. Use a distinctive core drill that is able to drill into concrete without moving all the way through the bottom of the material.

Employ a concrete epoxy into the hole. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for mixing the epoxy. Fill out the hole, then put the article inside. Use a level to adjust the article and ensure that it’s vertical to your concrete.

Stabilize the article by bracing all four sides using some thing like wooden planks. Remove the braces when the directions say the epoxy should be dry.

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Safe Materials to Lamp Shades

When making or remaking a lampshade, the material you choose for the job matters immensely. Some fabrics may burn, melt or discolor when hot, so it’s important to choose materials that can withstand a heat without damage. The internal liner material, such as a pressure-sensitive styrene, is actually the component which can help safeguard the outer material from heat. The bulb is every bit as important — when the wattage is too large and you are utilizing an old incandescent bulb, it could pose a fire hazard.

Inner Liner Material

Inspect different lampshades at your house or in a store, and you will discover that the inside looks different in the outer lampshade covering. This internal lining helps provide a strong yet flexible arrangement for the lampshade material while at the same time protecting it from heat emitted by the bulb. Pressure-sensitive styrene, also referred to as glue styrene, is that the substance used for the inside of several lampshades. This type of styrene is available at many craft stores or through lampshade provide shops.

The Outer Fabric

The very best fabrics for making your own lampshades are those made from natural fibers such as cotton or linen. Pick a fabric which can be ironed; otherwise, it wo not look smooth once you adhere it to the styrene. Don’t use synthetic fabrics or some types of thin silk which can discolor in the warmth of the iron or even the warmth of the bulb.

Non-Traditional Shades

Rather than the normal fabric shade on a wire frame, just about any substance which will not melt, burn or overheat may be used, such as a kitchen colander, cheese grater or even panes of stained glass. Make your own artificial capiz shell chandelier shade from discs of wax paper attached to strands of ribbon, secured to a wire lampshade ring or embroidery hoop. Massive cans such as olive oil or even imported pasta sauce cans may also be used after punching holes in order to allow light through.

Bulb and Socket Factors

Ultimately, your colour is only as secure as the bulb and socket assembly paired using it on the lamp. Check the light socket for a tag which specifies that the maximum bulb wattage considered secure for the socket; choose a bulb of the exact same or a lower wattage than recommended on the label. The lower the wattage, the heat emitted by the bulb. If building a lampshade from materials such as rice paper which may burn high heat or if near a flame, then pick only low-wattage bulbs that emit only a small amount of lighting. Select an LED bulb as a low-wattage option to a traditional incandescent bulb for yet another safe choice.

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What Height to Mount a Mantel?

Mantel height isn’t a random decision; the [National Fire Protection Association]( — the NFPA — sets criteria regarding positioning of a mantel in relation to the fire box. Local building codes can also order considerations and criteria. In both scenarios, there are variations from fire kind — wood burning, gas insert, canister, electric — and also way of ventilation. **Before you set up** a fireplace, surround or mantel: * Check any local code or by-law restrictions. * Check the company’s manual, which should provide particulars regarding minimum clearance conditions.

Minimum Mantel Vertical Clearances

The NFPA says that mantel thickness is directly related to the required height clearance between the surface of the fire box and the base of the mantel. For combustibles, such as wood or particle board, encompassing a sloping fireplace: * A 2-inch thickness needs to have a minimum height clearance of 11 inches. * A 4-inch thickness needs to have a minimum height clearance of 13 inches. * A 6-inch thickness needs to have a minimum height clearance of 15 inches. * An 8-inch thickness needs to have a minimum height clearance of 17 inches. * A 10-inch thickness needs to have a minimum clearance of 19 inches. **Confirm manufacturer’s installation instructions** prior to finalizing a mantel style; some wood-burning fireplaces must have a minimum 12-inch clearance.

Minimum Mantel Horizontal Clearances

Mantel height is frequently the principal concern of homeowners, however, mantel width can also be important. In the case ofhorizontal clearances of woodwork or other combustible materials](, frequently as a trim thickness, the projection of the end material impacts the space required from the outside border of the fire box into the interior edge of this trim: * less than 1 1/2 inches thick requires a minimum 6-inch clearance. * Facing 1 1/2 inches or heavier requires a minimum 12-inch clearance.

Materials Matter

Mantel material selection is an important consideration, both with regard to what is seen and that which stays unseen, as non-combustibles like glass, concrete or natural stone might be installed at a lower height. The unseen elements are equally, if not more important, than the visible. Stone applied over wood studs and regular drywall is substandard. To match lower height criteria, start with metal studs covered with non-combustible board and also affirm clearances with the manufacturer. If painting or applying different finishes to wood trim, brick or even firescreens, first assess the suitability of this end for heat-resistance and flammability.

Scale and Proportion

In addition to the several regulations and recommended allowances, proportion and scale should affect your layout. Identical fireplaces in 2 separate homes, one having an 8-foot ceiling and the other using a 20-foot ceiling, demand distinct mantel treatments. At the taller space, the mantel would make a unified statement using a wider and possibly thicker mantel. The treatment should extend up the wall, not stop at the 8-foot mark to chop the space in half.

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What Colour Shelves Match Light Blue Walls?

Reminiscent of organic elements like water and sky, the calming tones of blue produce a peaceful, nice atmosphere in any room of your house. When thinking about shelving on light blue wall, the room’s overall style, meant mood and additional accent colors can help lead you in picking out a color for shelves.

Going Light

Colours interact with each other when they are viewed side-by-side. Pure, bright white wall shelves and white with undertones of blue, green or violet bring from the cool tone of mild blue walls. White shelves with undertones of yellow, yellow or orange crimson make a mild blue wall appear marginally hotter. Pure white shelving makes light blue walls appear sharp and clean and looks the very best in southern neighborhoods, rooms with ample natural light or ocean views. In rooms with limited natural lighting, pure white may appear gray. Creamy whites with yellow undertones could have more appeal in rooms with low natural lighting. Keep a cohesive appearance in rooms with white trim by painting the shelves exactly the exact same color as the trim.

Organic Tones

The earthy tones of pure wood shelves produce an ideal complement to light blue walls. The gold yellow hues of pine, birch and bamboo shelves and the orange or amber tones of pine, maple and fir stick out in vivid contrast to the wall color. Produce a beach-inspired texture with the brown tones of walnut or teak shelves. Balance the coolness of a mild blue wall with the fiery hues of red-toned woods like cherry, mahogany and red cedar. Wood shelves with a pure finish provide an organic, welcoming feel in a room with light blue walls.

Shades of Blue

Painting wall shelves in varying hues of blue retains a cohesive, monochromatic appearance to the room. Consider an ombre effect by painting multiple vertical wall shelves in graduating shades of blue from dark to light. Make the shelves stick out by painting them navy blue or turquoise. Should you would rather the shelves to virtually disappear, bringing more focus to what is being displayed on top, paint the shelves exactly the exact same color as the wall. Produce a light and airy texture by painting the shelves a lighter shade of blue than the walls.

Complementary Contrast

If you’re searching for a bit more excitement, utilize a complementary orange colour for shelves which pop against light blue walls. Bright orange shelves in a child’s bedroom produce a visually stimulating accent. Light peach or apricot shelves add just a little warmth and contrast. For a more delicate, sophisticated approach, utilize a muted burnt orange or orange pumpkin color on wall shelves. An orange colour on the rear wall of built-in a bookcase painted white supplies an unexpected hint of warmth in the serene coolness of a mild blue room.

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